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How to Grow Green pea

Pisum sativum · Also called: Green pea, Garden pea, Shelling pea, English pea, Fresh pea, Matar, Hare matar, Batani

A young flat green pea pod on the plant with the spent flower still attached at its tip, surrounded by pale green leaves and thin curling tendrils gripping a wooden stake and wire.

Photo: Chmee2, CC BY 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)

A green pea is a vegetable with a clock running. It is the same plant as the dry field pea, but it is picked while the seed is still soft and sweet, and from that moment the sugar inside begins turning to starch. That single fact shapes everything: when you sow, how often you pick, how fast you get to market, and what you are paid. India and China grow by far the most fresh green peas, with the United States, France, Egypt, Algeria, Peru and Kenya also producing, and in much of South Asia it is a winter cash crop that comes in when little else does. It also feeds the household directly and leaves nitrogen in the ground for whatever follows.

Growing Green pea, Stage by Stage

  1. 1. Get the land ready — Work a fine seedbed on well-drained ground, and do not put peas after peas.
  2. 2. Choose your seed and planting material — Choose between a tall and a dwarf kind, and choose for the market you are selling into.
  3. 3. Sow the seed — Sow into cool moist ground in rows, and sow again every two weeks if you want a steady supply.
  4. 4. Water — Keep the ground steadily moist from flowering onward, because that is when the pods fill.
  5. 5. Weeds, support and feeding — Weed early, get the supports up before the plants need them, and add nothing containing nitrogen.
  6. 6. Flowering and pod fill — White or purple flowers come first, and the pods behind them fill from the bottom of the plant upward.
  7. 7. Watch for trouble — Powdery mildew, root rot, aphids and the pod borer are the four that matter here.
  8. 8. Harvest — Pick when the pods are full and round but still bright and soft, and pick again every two or three days.
  9. 9. Keep, store and sell — Cool them fast, sell them within a day or two, and know the price before you start picking.

Common Problems & Troubleshooting

If you see: Peas that are hard, dull and floury rather than sweet, although the pods looked well filled when you picked them.

It likely means: They were picked late. Once a pea is fully grown, the sugar in it starts turning to starch, and the change is quick.

Do this: Go over the field every two or three days rather than once a week.

If you see: Flowers dropping off, and pods that stay flat and empty on plants that otherwise look healthy.

It likely means: Heat during flowering. Peas set and fill in cool weather and simply stop when it turns hot.

Do this: Sow so that flowering falls in your coolest weeks, and count back from that.

If you see: A white or greyish dusty coating spreading over the leaves, stems and then the pods, late in the season.

It likely means: Powdery mildew. It thrives on warm dry days with cool damp nights, which is exactly the weather a late pea crop meets.

Do this: Ask a licensed dealer for resistant kinds, which is the main defence.

If you see: Plants yellowing, stunted and wilting in patches, easily pulled up, with blackened rotted roots and no pink nodules.

It likely means: Root rot in wet ground or in a field that has carried too many legumes. Growers call such ground pea-sick.

Do this: Do not sow peas where peas, beans or lentils grew in the last three or four years.

If you see: A small round hole in the side of a pod, and a caterpillar inside that has eaten some of the peas.

It likely means: A pod borer caterpillar. It feeds inside the pod where nothing sprayed on the outside reaches it.

Do this: Pick out and destroy bored pods at every picking rather than leaving them on the plant.

If you see: Tall plants collapsed on the ground with pods lying in the mud, hard to pick and dirty when picked.

It likely means: A tall kind grown without support, or supports put up too late, sometimes worsened by too much nitrogen.

Do this: Put nets, sticks or wire up before the plants are knee high.

If you see: Clusters of small green insects on the growing tips and flower stalks, with sticky leaves and sometimes distorted new growth.

It likely means: Pea aphids. Besides feeding on the plant they carry virus diseases from one crop to the next.

Do this: Wash them off with water or rub them off by hand where the plot is small.

Yield & Market Value

Growing the crop is only part of the job. The last part is knowing what a normal harvest looks like where you are, and knowing what your pods are worth before you agree a price with anybody.

Remember It This Way

If you forget every other page of this guide, keep these lines. They are the whole crop, in order, short enough to carry in your head.

Test Yourself: Identification

What does a pea plant look like, and how does it hold itself up?

What does a pea plant look like, and how does it hold itself up?

How do I know a pod is ready to pick?

How do I know a pod is ready to pick?

What should the shelled peas look like?

What should the shelled peas look like?

Honest Limits of This Guide

Sources

Laisha knows Green pea better than this page can show.Photo diagnosis for pests and disease, live market prices, and an agronomist you can ask at two in the morning. Ten days free, no card. After that 10 US dollars a month, one price worldwide.Start ten free days