Raphanus sativus · Also called: Mooli, Muli, Daikon, White radish, Chinese radish, Japanese radish, Salad radish, Winter radish
Photo: Alandmanson, CC BY 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)
Radish is the fastest food a piece of ground can produce. A salad radish sown today can be pulled in under a month, which makes it the crop for the gap between two others, for teaching a child to grow something, and for cash while a slower crop is still standing. At the other end of the family, daikon and mooli are serious staples across Japan, Korea, China, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, eaten fresh, cooked, pickled and dried, and stored through the cold months. The leaves are food too, and are thrown away far more often than they should be. Daikon has a second use that has nothing to do with eating: its long thick root drills straight through a hard compacted layer in the soil, and when it rots it leaves an open channel behind, which is why it is sown deliberately to loosen tired ground.
Growing Radish, Stage by Stage
1. Get the land ready — Deep, loose, stone-free soil, dug well before sowing and never manured fresh.
2. Choose the seed and the season — Match the type to your market and the sowing to the cool part of the year.
3. Sow and thin — Sow direct, shallow, in rows, and thin within a week of the seedlings appearing.
4. Water and weed — Even moisture with no dry spells, because a check in growth ruins the root.
5. Watch for trouble — Flea beetles pepper the leaves, maggots tunnel the roots, and club root lives in the soil for years.
6. Harvest — Pull promptly, because a radish left too long is worth nothing.
7. Store and sell — Keep them cool and damp, and get salad radish to market within days.
8. Use it to break up tired ground — Sown thick and left unharvested, daikon drills through a hard layer and rots away.
Common Problems & Troubleshooting
If you see: Fine healthy leaves and roots that never swell beyond a thin string.
It likely means: Almost always crowding, or too much nitrogen. Radishes left too close together compete and put everything into leaf.
Do this: Thin as soon as the first true leaves appear, and thin properly rather than a little.
If you see: Plants shooting up a tall flowering stem with a thin woody root below it.
It likely means: Bolting, which means running to flower. Heat and long days tell the plant to make seed rather than root, and once it starts the root is finished.
Do this: Sow in the cool season rather than into heat.
If you see: Roots cracked open along their length, often just before harvest.
It likely means: The crop got dry and was then watered heavily or rained on. The inside swells faster than the skin can stretch and it splits.
Do this: Water little and often rather than heavily and seldom.
If you see: Roots that look fine outside but are spongy or hollow inside and taste burning hot.
It likely means: They were left in the ground too long, or they grew slowly in heat. Radish is a crop with a short window and it does not wait.
Do this: Pull salad radish at three to five weeks rather than waiting for them to get bigger.
If you see: Roots split into two or three legs, twisted, or covered in fine hairy side roots.
It likely means: The root met something on its way down: a stone, a clod, a hard layer, or fresh manure. Transplanting causes it too.
Do this: Never transplant radish, and always sow where the crop will grow.
If you see: Plants wilting in the heat of the day, with swollen distorted lumpy roots when pulled.
It likely means: Club root, a soil disease of the whole cabbage family. It lives in the soil for many years and cannot be cured once a field has it.
Do this: Rotate so radish never follows cabbage, cauliflower, mustard, turnip or canola.
Yield & Market Value
Growing the crop is only part of the job. The last part is knowing what a normal harvest looks like where you are, and knowing what your radish is worth before you agree a price with anybody.
Remember It This Way
If you forget every other page of this guide, keep these lines. They are the whole crop, in order, short enough to carry in your head.
Never transplant a radish. Sow it where it will grow.
Deep loose soil with no stones, or the root forks.
No fresh manure. Use ground manured for the last crop.
Sow in the cool season, or it runs to flower.
Thin within a week, or you get leaves and no root.
Water little and often. A dry spell then rain splits it.
Sow small batches often. A whole bed ripens at once.
Pull salad radish at three to five weeks, not later.
Keep it cool and damp or it goes limp in hours.
Eat the leaves. They are food, not rubbish.
Test Yourself: Identification
What does a radish crop look like growing?
What does a good salad radish look like when pulled?
What does a daikon or mooli look like?
Honest Limits of This Guide
Timings here are given by season and by the state of the crop rather than in named months, because radish is grown almost everywhere in the world. Count from your own cool season.
The days-to-harvest figures are for the two common groups, quick salad radish and slow daikon, and varieties within each vary a great deal. Read the seed packet where there is one, and ask locally where there is not.
Yield figures in tonnes per hectare are given because people ask for them, but this guide says plainly that they mislead. Split, forked and hollow roots weigh the same as sellable ones.
Variety advice is deliberately local, especially for bolt resistance, because which variety holds in warm weather differs completely between regions.
This guide names no chemical treatments. Radish is a fast crop often eaten raw, club root has no chemical cure and is answered by rotation, and flea beetle damage on a root crop is mostly cosmetic.
Sources
GBIF Backbone Taxonomy species-match record for Raphanus sativus L. — Global Biodiversity Information Facility (GBIF), Copenhagen (source)
EPPO Global Database — Raphanus sativus (EPPO code RAPSR) — European and Mediterranean Plant Protection Organization (EPPO), Paris (source)
FAO work on vegetable production and post-harvest handling of root vegetables, with FAOSTAT production data — Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), Rome (source)
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